This Do Dham Yatra, a sacred twin pilgrimage of Kedarnath and Badrinath is a very powerful journey of purification, transformation. And above all Devotion. This journey is indeed a sacred path leading the seekers to have a sacred dialogue between the higher being and seekers. One side Kedarnath opens you up, on the other hand Badrinath makes you whole. You get to experience epiphanies of grace and wisdom, there is a journey that will rearrange something fundamental within you. This Do Dham Yatra will give you enough time and space to have a moment of self repentance and realisation. Up high in the Garhwal Himalayas, where the air is thin and clean and scented with snow, where peaks have watched ten thousand years of human supplication and worship, it will give you that space, and then fill it with something holy. And within this holy circuit, as a soft breath of release between two great gasps of wonder, is the holy wonder of Nainital, the city of lakes in the Kumaon Himalayan region.
Kedarnath and Badrinath represent two most spiritual and powerful forces in history and in the mythologies of Hinduism. Lord shiva is known as the transformer and liberator. On the other hand Lord Vishun is known as the preserver and sustainer. In the ancient mythology of Shaivism and Vaishnavism, these two gods are not in conflict but are complementary aspects of one another. And as you make up your mind to undertake the Do Dham Yatra it makes sense.
Kedarnath: A true definition of a place, which cannot be described just in a few words. Kedarnath is a place, which opens up the seekers fully and wholeheartedly. Indeed, one of the most powerful ones. It is perched at the altitude of 3,583 metres above sea level. It is located between the mighty
Kedarnath Peak and the towering Kedar Dome, this is not merely one of the twelve sacred Jyotirlingas of Lord Shiva. This is the one which pilgrims through the ages have described as the most intensely, viscerally, undeniably alive. As if Shiva is not merely worshipped here. One can feel the presence of Lord Shiva here. The ancient stone temple is the testimony of faith and perseverance, something beyond human comprehension. It was originally built by the Pandavs, the warriors of Epic Mahabharata. If you know a bit of history. They climbed these high and mighty himalayan peaks in search of Lord Shiva. As a pardon for the destruction caused during the epic Kurukshetra War and later restored in the 8th century AD by the incomparable Adi Shankaracharya. This temple has stood for over 1200 years and nothing has been able to break it. These massive stones are locked together so precisely without any city cement and have endured and survived Himalayan winters of unprecedented fury, earthquakes that have changed the face of the landscape, and the floods of June 2013 that destroyed entire villages and killed thousands in the valley below.
The Eternal Flame
It is one of the best kept secrets of Kedarnath. Every year, when the winter snows start closing the mountain passes, the Kedarnath temple is ritually closed for about six months. But before the massive doors are closed for the winter season, the priests perform one final ritual. They light an Akhand Jyoti, an eternal flame, inside the inner sanctum of the temple. It's quite interesting but, for more than six months the flame continues to burn, despite the worst of the Himalayan winter blizzards, avalanches, temperatures falling to minus 20 degrees Celsius. This really shows the power of divine being, isn't it? No human being is present. No human being attends to it. The temple is alone, buried under metres of snow and darkness. The doors of the temples are opened in the month of may, when the weather is a bit okay and snow melts. The first thing priests find out is the flame, still burning. Science cannot explain this phenomenon. Devotees do not need an explanation. They already know who has been keeping the flame burning through the dark of winter.
A pilgrimage within Pilgrimage
The 16 Kms Journey of trek starting from Gaurikund to Kedarnath is not just any mere physical trek. It is a trek filled with meditation through rhododendron trees and meadows. As you trek alongside the mountain streams and ancient establishments. You will hear the echoes of “Har Har Mahadev” from all sides, until it becomes one sound, a vibrating prayer that is echoed by the mountains themselves. Every step you take ahead is a moment of self surrender to the divine being. The fact is, even though with every step it gets freezing cold, that doesn’t deter the seekers who are determined to walk this path. And as our devotees climb, your body works, as your muscles strain, something magical happens. The weight you came with, not the weight in your backpack, but the weight in your chest and shoulders and jaw for years, starts to lighten. This path is not only limited to the seekers who are physically fit, but also to the one who is not able to make the trek, a helicopter ride provides the more adventurous way in over the Garhwal ranges and into the vast glacial valley and down towards the window of the ancient temple.
Badrinath: Well, every journey has a beginning and an end. Badrinath is the ultimate destination. And finally, there is light filled with hope and a radiance that is a reminder, of all that has gone before, and that is filled with complete peace. It is located at the altitude of 3,113 Meters on the holy banks of the River Alaknanda. It is surrounded by the towering peaks of the magnificent Neelkanth ranges, known as the Garhwal Queen, eternally snowcapped and a treat to the eyes, that beautiful. Badrinath is the holy abode of Lord Vishnu, the preserver of the universe. Also known as the embodiment of universal love that holds everything within its embracing arms for infinite ages. This ancient shrine is stunningly beautiful, beyond any photograph. Seekers are generally stunned to witness the colour combination of vivid red, green, and gold blazing against the stark grey-white of the surrounding peaks. It really feels like the divine being is officially declaring a declaration of joy. And most importantly, as you witness this reality, of beauty and spiritual treat, you will be in awe.
The Tapt Kund, A Sacred natural Hot Spring
Before the Darshan, you must visit the natural sacred hot spring called “The Tapt Kund”. It is believed that lord Agni himself blessed this spring the divine protector of fire. Regardless of the cold biting and freezing temperatures of the snow clad mountains. You will feel refreshed here. The pilgrims who emerge from Tapt Kund look very different from those who entered. Here, it's about spiritual meaning, devotees feel lighter in the heart. It truly feels that the Natural spring water has cleansed them. They feel like a new person.
Ultimate Witness to the the Lord Badri
The innermost sanctum of the Badrinath shrine is surrounded and filled with offerings and oil lamps which have been made over centuries. As you enter the center of the temple you will witness the black Shaligram stone statue of Lord Badri Narayan. It is a very well detailed statue with four arms, surrounded by fresh flowers and gold ornaments, sitting in a meditation posture. With his eyes half-closed in a look of deepest introspection and inner peace. It just feels like it is looking back at you. A very interesting fun fact you should know is, that this entire valley belonged to Lord shiva as his meditation place. But, Lord Shiva gifted the entire valley to Vishnu out of generosity as reverence.
Nainital, the city of Lakes (tals)
Nainital, one of the most visited places by tourists, known for its lakes and himalayan beauty. It is nestled in the Kumaon hills in Uttrakhand at an altitude of 2,084 meters. It is cradled around the jewel like Naini lake under the clear blue skies. It is the quiet landing after the Himalayas. It is the place where the journey begins, gently and without hurry, to assimilate everything the Himalayas have provided you. Nainital's lake is named Naini Tal. Also, interestingly there is myth and tales associated with it. And according to the ancient tradition, it is said to be one of the 64 Shakti Peethas, the sacred spot where the eye of Goddess Sati fell to the earth during the cosmic lament of Lord Shiva. In other words, even here in the gentle, beautiful hill resort of Nainital, the sacred is present, quieter, softer, more accessible, yet no less real. The Naina Devi Temple on the northern shore of the lake has been present here for centuries. A spot of feminine divine energy, it is like the complete note of a long musical phrase after the masculine intensity of the Shiva and Vishnu temples. Well, talking about the town, it's very colonial, quiet and ancient. The entire town is settled on the bank of the lake, which makes the town’s aesthetic naturally very eye pleasing. The mornings in the town are especially pleasing, calming and very relaxing. Especially after the tiring yet blessed Dham’s visit, this could be the best opportunity to have a moment of self reflection. You get to experience something far more greater, than just a mere natural scenery or landscape. You will get to witness a stunning natural phenomenon as the sun strikes the lake producing an internal shine. If you believe in receiving the blessing of experiencing the goddess's eye, you will witness that the divine is gazing back at you during this time.